On Physics And Fashion

"We love fashion but it's going so fast. We wanted to say 'No' this season." So said Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, and their Fall 2008 collection echoed this statement (in 3-D no less). I certainly understand the sentiment, but herein lies the problem. Fashion should feel special. So much of what designers show, Viktor & Rolf not included, is easily watered down for mass market. While this trickle down effect used to take seasons, it now seems to take only days. As a consequence, the luxury consumer tires of silhouettes and styles more quickly because she doesn't want to look like the masses who are wearing the knockoffs of the dress she just bought. It follows that fashion moves faster and faster.

So where are we heading then? At some point we have to stop moving in this direction and go back. Newton's Third Law tells us that for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Recently, everything has been about bigger and more. I think there will come a time when we start to demand better and are wiling to have less as a result. In fact, I think that time is now.

[image via style.com]

Best of Milan Fashion Week: Jil Sander

Just beyond...

This may be my favorite collection out of all of them so far.

Best of Milan Fashion Week: Bottega Veneta

Milan Fashion Week: Gucci

Go with me on a little journey back in fashion time…

Many moons ago, there was that enigmatic, elusive phenomenon that was Chanel Black Satin nail polish. My parents may remember where they were when Neil Armstrong walked on the moon. I remember I was in Louisiana in my parents’ kitchen when my nail polish arrived via FedEx. I hopped in a car and drove myself to a nail salon ASAP, where I treated myself to an excellent though overpriced manicure. (Manicures are one of the few things that are actually cheaper in New York as there’s a nail salon on every corner.)

While at the salon, I wouldn’t let the polish out of my sight. In New York, someone would certainly have tried to snag it. But slowly I began to realize that everyone around me hated it. The women around me looked at my nails with a mixture of curiosity and distain. Black Satin???? They hadn’t heard of it. They didn’t get it. And they didn’t want to get it. I couldn’t have given mine away if I had tried. Fast forward to now. Moms from Omaha to Atlanta and their Miley Cyrus-loving tween daughters can't get enough of the almost-black. When it comes to polish, I'm not loving anything in particular right now. But there's one color I'm not wearing these days. You guessed it.

Do you ever like collections you feel you shouldn't? Gucci is a collection that could fall under that category for me. It struck me as slightly gimmicky after so much restraint on the part of other designers. “Rock Chick” is territory one expects Roberto Cavalli or Dolce & Gabbana to explore, but Frida Giannini? Anyway, like a moth to a flame, so I liked Gucci. It might be a bad idea, but I just can't help myself. But take away the fur, the fringe, the belts and the layered jewelry and there are loads of fantastic pieces in my opinion. One thing I was completely drawn to were the lower-waisted pants. Higher waistlines, which I still like, haven’t really been around that long. And while I’m not over them, I can feel the subtle shift within. Spring 2009? Fine. But by Fall 2009? Forget it. I think I'm out.

While I imagine you're with me for the most part on the polish, I have a hunch you'll disagree on the pants and maybe even Gucci. Yes, I know I have fashion A.D.D. but like many a rehabbed starlet, I’m not really ready to change. Hey, admitting you have a problem is the first step!

Milan Fashion Week: Missoni

Maybe I should say the line formerly known as Missoni...

I love Missoni. I love their knits, and I loved it when they branched out from their knits. But this collection lost its way and is barely recognizable as Missoni at all. It's time for Missoni to revisit their classics.

London Fashion Week: Louise Goldin

An unfortunate byproduct of the weakened dollar is that many American buyers have bypassed London Fashion Week. That, of course, makes it difficult for London-based young designers to break into the U.S. market.

Louise Goldin is one designer worthy of consideration from U.S. buyers. While the market is flooded with young designers, exciting new knitwear designers are not so plentiful. Consider how often we wear knits - T-shirts, sweaters, tights, knit dresses. You get the idea. Louise Goldin gets it, too, and she just may be one of the most exciting things to happen to knits since Missoni.






























[images via style.com]

London Calling

According to style.com, Topshop is set to open in New York this October.

Hmm...

Kate Bosworth in Fendi

A look from Jaeger London's Fall 2008 collection

Grammy Awards Red Carpet

New York Fashion Week - Fall 2008 Wrap-Up

Top 12 Collections
Alexander Wang
Carolina Herrera
Jenni Kayne
Jonathan Saunders
Juan Carlos Obando
Narciso Rodriguez
Preen
Proenza Schouler
Richard Chai
Rodarte
Staerk
Vera Wang

New York Fashion Week: Jenni Kayne

In the hierarchy of fashion design, Paris looks down on the rest of Europe, Europe looks down on New York, and New York - well, we thumb our noses at L.A. of course. To many New York fashionistas, Los Angeles' greatest contribution to fashion is The Hills, that froth-filled guilty pleasure in all of its scripted Teen Vogue glory.

Maybe it's time to reconsider. Earlier in the week, I mentioned Los Angeles-based Juan Carlos Obando as having a breakout collection. And then yesterday, Jenni Kayne was a star on the day that was supposed to belong to Donna, Ralph and Marc.


























[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Staerk

It was a strong showing for Camilla Staerk who drew inspiration from abstract expressionist sculptor Louise Nevelson (below) in her collection entitled Black Bride of the Moon. Nevelson was best known for her "assemblages" - boxes made up of found objects; she believed that "when you put together things that other people have thrown out, you’re really bringing them to life..."






















While I certainly see elements of Nevelson's sculptures, I also see a great deal of Nevelson, herself - a striking character with kohl-rimmed eyes and a very specific style of fashion that was an assemblage in itself.










Nevelson's Sky Cathedral

And the collection...

New York Fashion Week: The End

It was not the most exciting final day of New York Fashion Week for the big guns (Ralph, Donna, Marc), but a couple of young designers were bright spots. I'll have pics shortly. So now it's on to London, assuming the models/designers don't boycott.

New York Fashion Week: Vera Wang

Fauvist painter Kees Van Dongen was the inspiration for Vera Wang's Fall 2008, which, with one day left in fashion week, is certainly one of the standout collections. The eroticism of van Dongen played well when juxtaposed against the "street" style that has been echoing through many of this season's top collections. I couldn't help thinking of snapshots taken by The Sartorialist - fashionable men and women wearing imaginative ensembles that are mix-and-match and never one-note.

Some, like New York Magazine's Amy Odell found this collection to be heavy-handed, but for me, it was a clear winner.

[images via style.com]

Retail Therapy

If the photographs from New York Fashion Week have put you in the mood for shopping, stop by the Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show going on today and tomorrow. Click here for details, and see footage from the last show, click the link below.

The Fab Life: Vintage Clothing Show

New York Fashion Week: Richard Chai

Bravo! I would wear almost every piece in this collection.

[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Rodarte

Inspirations for Rodarte's Fall 2008 collection included Kabuki, Japanese horror flicks, Eva Hesse string sculptures, and rebellion against a saccharine spring season. But I don't want to overthink the inspiration and lose sight of the quality and originality of the Mulleavy sisters' work.

It has been easy to feel blue about the state of American design the past few years, but a young crop of designers - Alexander Wang, Richard Chai (the most exciting collection from Wednesday in my opinion), and Kate and Laura Mulleavy to name a few - is reason for excitement. They are innovators, not imitators.

Below are images from the Rodarte Fall 2008 collection.








































[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez is always about cut; the clothes are a) sculptural and b) tailored to perfection. That's why we love him, and this season did not disappoint on that front.

But Narciso managed to throw us a few curve balls. First there was chiffon. Then feathers. And then there were vague reminders of Tom Ford-era Gucci, which is not to suggest that Mr. Rodriguez was referencing any Tom Ford collection. No indeed. But there was something fierce about many looks, particularly those that were black and seemed, dare I say it, bondage inspired. But while Ford's sexuality was overt and often over the top, this side of Rodriguez exists more beneath the surface. The change of pace was exciting; it worked on all fronts. This is a collection I'd love to wear.


























[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Best of Tuesday

Narciso Rodriguez and Rodarte. I will be posting more about each shortly.

New York Fashion Week: Proenza Schouler

The first thing one notices in the Proenza Schouler Fall 2008 collection is the elaborate folding that characterizes the jackets and coats, and in fact, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough were inspired while folding paper airplanes on a Texas roadtrip. Dresses received a similar treatment with undulating layers of folds; as for the slouchy trousers, they were exquisitely cut and entirely wearable.

Sequins also played an important role in this collection, and looked shockingly fresh when paired with one of the paired down oversized jackets or coats. After a Fall 2007 season with sequins covering every cocktail dress from Tory Burch to Alice + Olivia, I thought I was completely over them. I was wrong.

New York Fashion Week: Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera's Fall 2008 collection takes us to the countryside, but Carolina's trip requires clothing a bit more upscale than say, worn-in jeans and Hunter Wellies. Perish the thought.

I'm picturing a fall picnic on cashmere blankets in an open field. A sprawling stone mansion and gardens as a backdrop. Artisanal cheeses, freshly baked bread, and caviar. A delicious bottle of red wine...

Enough already. Here are the clothes.

New York Fashion Week: Preen

Kurt Cobain and Kim Bassinger in 9 1/2 Weeks inspired the Preen Fall 2008 collection. While this collection was not without misses - the sequins and satin-based evening looks at times felt forced, there were so many strong points that one didn't care. Standouts included pajama-inspired trousers, oversized jackets in plaid and sheepskin, and flimsy silk "nightshirt" dresses.

New York Fashion Week - Fall 2008: Jonathan Saunders

The starting points of Jonathan Saunders Fall 2008 collection were Brancusi sculptures, Irving Penn sand collages and science fiction. While these references are seemingly at odds with one another, Saunders' successfully threads them throughout the entire collection. His work is otherworldly and earthy at the same time. And the purity and sophistication that typified a Brancusi sculpture is also evident in this collection.

[Brancusi, The Endless Column]

[images of Jonathan Saunders Fall 2008 collection via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Most Exciting Collections So Far

This is shaping up to be a strong fashion week.

These are the most exciting collections I have seen so far:
(in no particular order)

- Jonathan Saunders
- Preen
- Alexander Wang
- Juan Carlos Obando

I'll be posting photos of the collections from Jonathan Saunders and Preen shortly.

Quiet Protest

I'm tired of fashion week being more about who is sitting in what row instead of who designed what clothes. So unless someone's presence at a show is particularly noteworthy, I refuse to acknowledge it.

New York Fashion Week: One To Watch

Juan Carlos Obando

The title of this collection was Liz Goldwyn vs. Frank Miller. Liz Goldwyn, of course, is the jewelry designer/director granddaughter of the late MGM founder Samuel Goldwyn. And Frank Miller is an artist, writer, and director who is best known for his film-noir-style comic books.

In this age of everyone's-a-designer, it's refreshing to be confronted by a real designer. Unlike some of his contemporaries whose design skills consist primarily of a) finding interesting vintage garments and b) taking them to factories to be reproduced, Obando actually sewed each of the fourteen samples in this fall collection himself.

Obando is not a brand new designer - he has shown past collections in Los Angeles - but this season was his first in New York.

[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Fall 2008 Trends

The Urban Warrior

If, in life, there are lovers and fighters, these girls fall into the latter category.









Alexander Wang
























Yigal Azrouël






















Rag & Bone









[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Fall 2008 Trends

The Brown Brigade

Brown, tan, beige and every variation in between have been almost completely absent from color forecasts for a while now. But after several seasons of gray as the go-to alternative to black, brown is most definitely back.










Juan Carlos Obando






















Costello Tagliapietra






















BCBG






















Sari Gueron






















Rag & Bone










[images via style.com]

New York Fashion Week: Fall 2008 Trends Emerge

The Slouchy Trouser

Some seasons, designers are all over the map, but after just two full days of collections, we are already seeing trends start to emerge. The first of these is the slouchy trouser, and the pant brigade is making flirty feminine dresses look like they are past their expiration date.









Alexander Wang

























Jason Wu



















Three As Four






















United Bamboo











[images via style.com]